Sunday, 11 April 2010

Accessorise!

Whilst thinking about accessories for my collection, i had a daydreaming five minutes looking at the 2010 accessories from some of the top designers. I fell in love with the Derek Lam Bucket bag and these amazing shoes from Viktor and Rolf...
I really wish i could afford these shoes to go with my collection - im not sure that the fact that theyre the right colours is reason enough to kill my overdraft however...






R&R Loves....

Benoît Missolin Miss Fortuna headband, $357.72. Available at eshop.benoitmissolin.com

Quotes From The Top

I was taking a quick flick through style.com and found an interview with Julie Gilhart, the fashion director of Barney's, New York, and thought some of her opinions were really interesting. I thought i'd share a couple of snippets from the interview, especially those on the future of the fashion show (which i totally could have used when writing my essay) and on eco-fashion. She mentions designers who manufacture in New york or their home towns, something i wish would extend to the British fashion industry!


"That goes to the question of fashion shows and how important the live experience still is. Does the energy you see on the runway somehow boil down into the garment in a way that you can’t necessarily describe?"

It has to be well designed. You’re not going to get excited about a show that has great music, great models, and not great clothes. But if you have all three of them, you’re like, wow, this is great, totally inspired. It’s the $64,000 question. How valid are fashion shows?

If the Rodarte girls didn’t have a fashion show, would you be able to get the essence of that collection? You would look at it in the store and say, that’s really great and that’s really interesting and unique, but I always go back to that [Spring 2010] fashion show, and I’m like, wow, I loved all that smoke. I loved the way the models looked so goth and how they mixed in that plaid and the boots were all thigh-high and strappy. It gives you the feeling that these girls have a certain power, but if you were just to look at it in a store, it’s just a dress on a hanger. It came from that source, so it’s our job to express the power behind that. That’s where a Style.com comes in, [saying] that’s what we saw and it’s kind of amazing…I love Style.com, it’s the Wikipedia of fashion…It’s really like, just the facts, ma’am, please. Here are the pictures and here’s what we can tell you about the show and here you go. That’s one of the things that has changed fashion, Style.com…it’s like Xerox and the copier. Style.com is an amazing Internet engine. You put it up there with Google and all that other stuff. It’s pretty incredible—it’s changed a lot of things.Beyond Style.com, has the whole model, the whole way of looking at fashion shows, changed? It’s not about a top-down dictatorial approach anymore.That’s why I think some of the big brands are struggling right now. “What do we do?” They’re feeling it, they’re feeling the shift. And they’re all trying to figure out what to do.


"Talking of how things are made, you’ve been a vocal champion of eco-fashion, if that’s the correct term. I don’t know if you like that term. How important is that, going forward?"

I think it’s actually about being conscious. Green, eco, all those words—it’s just about being more conscious. [Take] somebody like Isabel Toledo, who’s doing everything in New York…and only buys fabric to order and knows exactly where everything is being done and pays fair wages and is doing everything in a very sustainable way, as much as possible.
It’s not easy to be completely conscious in the way of sustainability and organic and eco, because not all of the materials are available yet, and the resources aren’t there.

I just had this experience with Colin Firth’s wife, Livia, who’s amazing. She [was] trying to go through the whole awards season wearing clothes that are made in a sustainable way, and [was] having a really hard time…She has to be in something that’s designed well and is glamorous, but is actually very conscious—and it’s not easy, it’s very difficult. But I think it should become easier…If I’m going to work in fashion, I don’t want to be part of the things that are contributing to a worse environment. I want to be part of something that’s contributing to a better environment, and so whatever little we can do, I’m going to try to do that. So it means supporting people that you believe really want to try to do a better job in that way, and actually it goes back to some of the things that the customers really want. They want things that are made well, that are made in a conscious way, that have long-term values, that are beautiful. All of that is part of the story. It’s not just about eco and organic.

Website - Costume

Check out costume designer/maker Sarah P - Awesome cake dress!

Friday, 9 April 2010

R&R Loves...

Piers Atkinson - Headwear

For my collection i have to research, design and create headwear pieces which stand out and make a statement. Whilst researching, a friend emailed me these pictures from Piers Atkinson.... i give you bizarre headwear....






A small part of me wants to go this weird.... ;)

Collection - Fabric

I'm so excited to have finally bought my final fabric for my collection. I thought my choice of a mnochrome colour palette would make this part of the collection really easy, but god was i wrong! During my toile review we decided that in order to make the monochrome work it would have to be bright white and the darkest black i could find, which was sensible but hard to find.
In the end i bought a silk dupion in black and white which has a vintage feel and look to it, which im loving. to make the over skirt of one of my dresses, i found a shimmery jewlled organza which was a lucky discovery in a random side street in Carnaby street. It's perfect though.

I decided on brightly jewel coloured linings to contrast with the black and white outsides of my dresses, which only the wearer will know about. This also fits in with my theme of turning things inside out - The skelton is on the outside and the decorative skin is inside, hidden.

I also found the perfect shoes - the style name is actually "Harriet" and so fate kind of took over - i love it when a plan comes together!

Shoe link: http://www.dorothyperkins.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=true&catalogId=20552&storeId=12552&categoryId=51585&parent_category_rn=51581&productId=1637698&langId=-1

collection - Fourth Dress

The fourth dress in my collection is proving to be the most difficult to construct - although i have learnt to love a challenge! In my mind and design the dress's skirt is highly structured and a very rigid shape, which is proving hard to maintain. So far i'e used spray starch, interfacing and boning in various places to try to maintain it. I also tried to create a suitable underskirt with both metal and wooden rods in the hem to keep the skirt shape intact. Although these worked to begin with, after being modelled for a while, it was clear they wouldnt stand up to the pressure of a catwalk and were discarded.
So the earch is still on...




Wednesday, 7 April 2010

Collection - Inspirations

For my final collection i'm using inspirations such as building foundations and interiors, the xo-skeletons of bugs and the human skeleton to create my dresses. I feel i've moved away from looking at the outside of objects and im now looking inside to find beauty in the breakdown of items.

Below are a couple of images i've used in my sketch books and theme boards:



Thursday, 1 April 2010

C.V - Fashion

As i'm applying for placements again at the moment i thought i put a copy of my c.v onto my blog - take a look, make a comment...
Harriet Crome

Date of Birth: 18/09/88
Nationality: British

Email:
harriquinn@hotmail.co.uk

Education & Qualifications:

2008 – Present
The Art’s Institute at Bournemouth, Poole
FdA Fashion Design (Year One)

2005 - 2007
Brockenhurst College, Brockenhurst
International Baccalaureate: Chemistry, Maths, Philosophy, Art/Design, Spanish and English.
Total points awarded after examinations: 25

Information Technology: Certificate of achievement for Illustrator and InDesign.
Grade: Merit

Work Experience:

July 2009
Antonia Pugh-Thomas
Two weeks work experience at a couture fashion house, where I gained experience in both the design and technical areas of the industry. Duties included creating toile’s, constructing garments and making alterations to both patterns and garments. I also gained experience in creating fastenings and trimmings.
June 2009
Peclers Paris
Assisting with theme boards and presentation books. Sorting photographs for trend boards and creating fabric and wool samples. Also ordering wools and threads from manufacturers.

June 2009
Temperley London
Experience working in the pattern cutting and construction department. Assisting with creating patterns and toile’s for the future collection. I was also given some experience in draping and the construction of ruffles.

May 2009
SpendThrift
I worked backstage at the debut Fashion show for the new collection from Falguni and Shane Peacock. Responsibilities included dressing models, Organising the front of house and helping the Designers.

February 2009
ON/OFF – London Fashion Week
I recently got the chance to work backstage at the ON/OFF shows at London Fashion Week, which was an incredible experience. My role included dressing models, organising and steaming garments and the general organisation of the backstage area. This opportunity allowed me an exciting insight into the life of a designer and educated me on the methods of show production.

January 2009
Beau Couture, Poole
Role included assisting with photo shoots for new collections and the finishing off of garments. The placement gave me a great insight into the industry and the promotional side of being a designer.

September 2007 – December 2007
IDEX (Indian Network for Development Exchange), Rajasthan, India
Role included teaching young children and adolescent girls, in the undeveloped area of Shiv, Rajasthan. Responsibilities included teaching basic I.T skills; Microsoft Word and Excel; to eight adolescent girls in the village and providing support for teachers in local primary schools. Also arranging and managing English language classes for children who usually carry out manual labour. I also carried out weekly community visits and meetings and achieved a certificate from the company verifying my participation. The role also allowed me to experience the culture and sights of India.

Interests:
My foremost passion is for fashion, especially Haute Couture, designing and the industry as a whole. The idea of creating garments and styling them has been a fascination of mine since a young age and since starting a fashion design course at the AIB I have extended my interests into pattern cutting and trend forecasting.
I am a keen musician, studying the Cello and Piano, and I have studied Ballet and Character dance from a young age, following the Royal Academy of Dance examination. I also have a love of travelling and love learning about other cultures, which was furthered during my gap year when I visited India, Western and Eastern Europe and North Africa.

I am also the Student Representative for the FDA Fashion course at the Arts Institute and a Student Ambassador for the University.

Awards:
I was recently awarded the Beales Scholarship Grant, which will aid my future collections and enable me to fulfil my ambitions of working within the Haute Couture industry and fund my research into British Fabrics.

Sunday, 28 March 2010

Collection - Changes



After my first toile review i decided that one of my dresses didnt quite fulfill my original design and so i set about to change it. My design was very sleek on one side and flared on the other, whilst the garment was flared on both creating a more volumious shape. I decided to make one side longer, fulfilling the assymetric angle of my design and to take it in on that side as well, making it sleeker in shape.


although this change made my dress fit my design more accurately - i found it ruined the shaping i had loved around the hips and so i have decided to leave both sides flared and to simply make the entire length 5cm longer.



Monday, 22 March 2010

Best Photo Ever!

So whilst hunting for pics of the V&R A/W 2010 collection (for wallpaper), i came across this...I'm pretty sure this isn't the method they used.... at least i hope not!

Viktor and Rolf - A/W 2010

I swear there's nothing i wouldnt do or pay to get my hands on one of these pieces.... I want there to be proper photos so i can print them off and stick them all over my walls!


These make me want to make collection even bigger and crazier!!! If only i had the workforce behind me that they do *sigh*.

Frosted at Chanel

Okay youve got to admire Karl L's ever increasing craziness and creativness when it comes to his collection showcases. The Chanel offering at Paris was set beneath an actual iceberg shipped in from Scandanavia and the catwalk was akin to an ice rink. Theres something incredibly stunning about a mainly pure white, fur trimmed collection on ice...
I love the edgy touch that the fur trims give the traditional tweeds of the suits and dresses, and the ice cube inspired jewellery is amazing!









Saturday, 20 March 2010

Collection - Continued

So my collection is finally taking shape! theres been ALOT of experiementing and subtle design changes but im finally happy with each dress and how theyre progressing. Some pics below to show the progress:











Thursday, 11 March 2010

Branding Task

A few months ago at uni we had a session on branding ourselves for our future careers, which involved us deciding on a brand name and look and i have to admit i struggled slightly with this. I personlly have always wanted to work for a design house that was not neccessarily my own, so branding myself as the designer took some time.
However i have decided apon several things: the first being the name of my company/brand which is ChROME (my surname infused wth the first letter of my forename - simple and sutble i felt.) I also decided that my bags/packaging would be white with silver lettering, tied with ribbon of the same palette (still keeping it simple and fitting in with the metal implication from the Chrome name.)

I've already ordered some samples of packaging to see how well this works, but im pretty happy with my branding now. I feel it reflects my design philosphy - the classic(white) mixed with the playful (silver).

Sunday, 7 March 2010

Want This!!!


R&R Loves:








Model Ping Pong

This was kind of funny and quite bizarre:

http://www.style.com/video/fashion-moments/fashion-moments/1896809784/model-challenge-pingpong/48483787001

I love that she wins!

Shop Girls


Study India

Im currently applying for the Study India programme, which is run between August and September this year, giving successful applicants the oppotunity to study in various parts of India as an extra for their course. Im palnning to use it as part of my placement term for my third year and im literally dying to be accepted to go. Im so addicted to the Indian culture, and i get so inspired from the clothing, textiles and colours, that im hoping it will form the basis of my collection for next year as well. However all i can do at the moment is apply and hope!

Alice In Wonderland - Review

So i went to see the new Tim Burton offering on friday and had mixed feelings about it. Although i personally liked it, i felt it wasnt worth all the hype surrounding it. And there was also a bit of opinion swapping - i thought id love Depp in it but actually i was disappointed in his performance, but i adored Mia's portrayal of Alice... she really does have 'gravity'.
But most importantly were the costumes!! Created and designed by of course Colleen Atwood, they were sensational... and very Galliano inspired i thought. They made the movie for me, especially the red, fluted dress Alice wears in the Red Castle - amazing!



Collection update

So my morning routine goes as follows at the moment... wake up, get out of bed, catch sight of fabric/sketches/samples, smile! I think im actually a little in love with my collection, which is awesome after hating my jacket last term. I feel like theres a massive chunk of me in it, as well as tributes to my favourite designers (note the monochrome). Im currently making my second round of toiles, which is taking a lot longer then i first thought, due to the mass amount of structural negoitation im having to do with each piece. I spent an entire day spray starching my crazy pointed skirt last week, just to have it go limp again after a couple of hours, so im investing in a series of metal rods to help with the structure... fingers crossed! The cape is proving troublesome for such a simple concept but im getting there - i have the fabric for it, which is stunning, so im determined to nail it this week. And the other three dresses are taking shape slowly... im kind of veiwing this review as just another stepping stone to getting the perfect outcome, which is helping to keep my stress levels down! Anyway, pictures next week X

Fashion As A Forum - Update

Okay so its nearly essay deadline time and its actually going pretty well. I've got my first draft done and signed off so its just down to the real thing now with all the touch ups. I've actually really enjoyed writing it and creating my (hopefully) massive research file, and we'll see soon if it lives up to expectations lol. It also gave me the excuse to watch every single live stream from london fashion week as "research" which was pretty awesome - although im a bit bored of technological side of fashion at the moment, as EVERYBODY is doing it... longing for the intimate couture showings of old!!

Saturday, 6 March 2010

I love this set of shots of Fashion week - especially a pair of green/brown leather shoe boots, a white structured coat and the amazing use of fur. Check it out: http://www.style.com/trendsshopping/stylenotes/021110_Tommy_Ton_NYC/

Friday, 19 February 2010

Collection - Beginnings

So i've started constructing my final collection today from my finalised designs and its actually really exciting! I've made a little progress on two of my dresses - one with a film strip cage around it and the other which is assymetric with 3d pieces. The basic shapes have proved reasonably easy but its getting the details and the fit of the bodice perfect thats been tricky.






Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Topshop are collaboarating with Danielle Scutt!!!!!!!!!!! I'm so excited!!!

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

Fashion As A Forum - 2

Second theory lesson was good. I'm still really into this academic aspect of the course and literally cant wait to start my essay. I've done a lot of research since last week on my chosen subject. Im looking at catwalks old and new and researching the use of technology and film in presenting collections, such as those made by Alexander McQueen. Also as i think atmosphere and mood is so important at catwalk shows and exhibitions, I'll be discussing whether technology adds or takes away from the atmosphere of fashion events. Really excited!

Thursday, 28 January 2010

Decode


Went to visit my friend in London last weekend and ended up at the 'Decode' exhibition at the V&A in South Kensington. Had to be talked round at first to go and see it but once i was there i had the best experience.
So i don't know that much about the latest technologies, so a lot of what was on display was completely new territory for me and i loved it. The entrance pathway into the exhibition was lined with long plastic plant like forms, which lit up and flashed when they came into contact with movement. They were designed by Daniel Brown, who works extensively with electronic codes and is a pioneer in the field of new media.
My other favourite pieces included the Digital Zoetrope, by Trokia, which focused on the interplay between technology, design and the arts. It was a spinning circle which when focused on, allowed you to catch certain words on a story depending on where you looked. It was extremely mesmerizing and the illusion was extremely effective. Also Study For A Mirror was an extremely effective and interesting piece, which focused on how people don't spend enough time looking at exhibits. You sat in front of the mirror-esque piece and watched as it gradually painted your portrait. You couldd clearly see who was spending enough time appreciating the work as their outlines appeared on the screen.

I found myself comparing this exhibition greatly to ShowStudio, another exhibition that uses high tech technology, and i have to say that i found the atmosphere in Decode much more interesting then in ShowStudio, which i felt was pretentious and all about how things were exhibited, instead of having a lot of content. I have since returned to the Decode exhibition...

Saturday, 23 January 2010

Fashion As A Forum - 1

Had my first theroy lesson today and im so excited - i literally cant wait to write something academic again! It's been way too long since i had to write an essay and i miss it, so i think im going to enjoy this unit. Our essay is all about digital technology being used in the fashion idustry, be it in exhibitions, for catwalk shows etc, and i think we have to reference the 'Show Studio' exhibition we saw last term - which by the way i was not a fan of. I appreciate what they were trying to do but it just seemed a bit flashy and style concious, when it should have just focused on the garments themsleves. Anyway i have a research week this week so i'm going to look at a ton of online exhibits to get some inspiration before choosing my title.

Thursday, 21 January 2010

Temperley London Pre-Fall 2010

Ever since i did a work placement at Temperley London, i've been obsessed with their clothes and collections. Theres something so elegant about a Temperley dress - theyre timeless and chic without being trying too hard. Perfection in everyway.

I love the colour of this dress - its so striking and the fabric and cut is beautifully elegant.

Love the monochrome on this one - slightly rockier?

I'm really liking the sheer fabrics on this one - very elegant... the perfect LBD?

My Favourite Dress



I got this amazing book for xmas and im addicted to it. It basically asks fashion designers what their favourite dress is either from their own collections or from other designers and invites them to tell the story behind it. It includes designers such as Louise Goldin, Donna Karan, Paco Rabanne and Vivienne Westwood; along with other fashion related personalities like Jane Bruton.
My favourite contribution has to be from Bella Frued, whose choice was her 1992 Belle De Jour dress. I like it becuase, as Bella says, its simple but makes you look twice, and i also love how she uses her muse, Susie Bick, as inspiration for her collections, speaking of her with respect and inspiration.

This also got me thinking about my favourite dress or dresses and i thought id share. I have three... cant make a decision apparently! The first is my High School prom dress... a slim fit cream creation with insane twists and twirls of fabric at the hemline. Bought in Barcelona as an impulse buy and loved so much i tried to convince my parents to buy it a seat on the plane home!
The second is my little black dress - completely worn out and indecently short but its so sixties and so cute.
And the third is my printed wrap dress - becuase everyone should own one. I miss wrap dresses - where on earth did they all go??!
“When all is said and done, when everything is gone, the photograph is what’s going to remain. The photographer is the producer of history.” Nat Finkelstein

Love this quote!